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Bavarian Grill
In unskilled hands, the accordion can be a lethal weapon, its air-
pumped shrieks stirring flashbacks of beer-drenched Oktoberfests
gone horribly wrong. But nestled in the capable arms of a maestro
like local boy Alan Walling, its soulful music can whisk you away from
the flatlands of North Plano to the Black Forest of Southwest Germany.
Okay, So I exaggerate a tad. Located on the backside of an average
suburban shopping mall, nobody's going to mistake the Bavarian Grill
for a chalet in the Alps. But owner Juergen Mahneke packs his popular
restaurant with enough authentic European charm to almost make you
lose your drawl. Likewise, the menu features everything you would expect
-- schnitzel, goulash and plenty of meaty wursts -- plus a few
hearty surprises like Vienna-style prime rib and Bavarian meatloaf. A
first-rate collection of German beers and nightly entertainment complete
the postcard-perfect atmosphere. And if the Bavarian Grill itself
doesn't completely seduce you, leave it to Walling and his magical
squeezebox. By the end of the night, he'll have you clanking steins and
signing up for accordion lessons. No, really. - Todd Johnson
221 W. Parker Rd., Ste. 527, Plano. 972-881-0705. $$
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